Making an Exit Read online

  For Fa

  Contents

  Title Page

  Dedication

  Epigraph

  Introduction

  1. The Lament: A Tear Jar in Iran

  2. Beautiful Fire: A Burst of Flames in Bali

  3. Startling Stillness: Death on Display in Sicily

  4. Inside the Box: A Fantasy Coffin in Ghana

  5. Packing for Eternity: Gifts for the Afterlife in Hong Kong

  6. Raising Pigs: A Get-Together in the Philippines

  7. Foreign Fields: Far from Home in Calcutta

  8. Dem Bones: A Chapel in the Czech Republic

  9. Hello Again: On an Altar in Oaxaca

  10. The Final Chapter: Small Packages, Neatly Tied

  Acknowledgments

  Select Bibliography

  Further Information

  Index

  Also by Sarah Murray

  Copyright

  READY TO GO

  Weary of plying,

  Exhausted by trying,

  Irked by spying,

  And well meaning prying,

  Accused of lying,

  No money for buying,

  Can’t see for untying,

  No longer denying,

  No tears for crying,

  A fear of dying

  But a

  Longing for dying.

  —NIGEL STUART MURRAY

  (DATE UNKNOWN)

  Introduction

  The trouble with death is what comes before it. I struggle to replenish my memory bank with images of my father, not as he was in illness—tired, shrunken, and gray—but as he was in health. He was at his happiest out and about in the countryside, in brown corduroys, rubber boots, a green padded jacket, and a tweed hat. With eyes twinkling beneath unruly brows, he was always ready for a good walk, a good debate—and usually a good laugh.

  We called him Fa. Neither of my parents wanted to be known by “Mum” or “Mummy,” “Dad” or “Daddy.” But somehow while my mother, Sam, acquired a rough-and-ready boy’s name as her substitute (her actual name is Pamela), my father settled on a rather fey alternative—something I had to keep quiet at school, where my classmates competed on the ferocity of their rows with “the old man.” To fit in, I played along, but the truth is, Fa and I got along like familiar friends, enjoying debates on politics, economics, and art, battling it out on turf that was intellectual, not emotional.

  Fa’s approach to family relationships was unconventional. He thought the idea of raising children in a kibbutz (a Jewish collective community) an excellent one. And while he and my mother fell in love at first sight and remained devoted throughout their marriage, they never once celebrated their wedding anniversary, claiming neither could remember the exact date (they celebrated a relationship requiring no formal buttressing). For Fa, close bonds with friends and family were essential, but only those forged by genuine affection, not by obligation or tradition. Even Christmas was a casual affair, sometimes spent not at home but in London, with my parents turning up bearing a picnic hamper of smoked salmon, a selection of cheeses, and a bottle of wine.

  Few events caused my family to flap or panic. One afternoon during Fa’s time at the Joseph Weld Hospice, word came that Prince Charles was to visit and wanted to meet a patient. The nurses immediately chose my father, and in excited tones, told Sam, who was lunching at the hospice, that she, too, could meet the heir apparent. Sam, as she told me later without a hint of irony, asked what time he was arriving, looked at her watch and said: “Oh no, I’d better not—I’ve got to be getting on. And he’ll only be late.”

  My family’s no-nonsense approach to life was one my father applied to death. He dismissed the idea that what was left after a person took their last breath had any significance. “Organic matter,” he called it. After my grandmother died, he insisted that her body was simply flesh, skin, and bones, with no connection to the person who once inhabited them. That person was gone. He even managed to get a refund from the undertakers, who’d mistakenly sent her off in a silk-lined wooden coffin with an engraved plate on it bearing her name, despite his request for what she’d wanted—a simple cardboard box.

  On another occasion, he stood in the kitchen, cheerily claiming he’d be happy if, after his death, the hospital would simply dispatch his remains in the most efficient, hygienic way possible. That would be that.

  Yet for Fa, that wasn’t quite that. He was to make other arrangements altogether. And it’s these arrangements, set down on paper a few months before he died, that have got me asking questions—questions about the way we humans mark the passing of our fellows; questions about how we approach our own mortality. This book is an attempt to answer some of them.

  * * *

  While it plunges us into chaos and grief, death also forces us to plow through piles of paperwork and fill in dreary forms. We close bank accounts and cancel insurance policies. We make special trips to hospitals, nursing homes, and hospices to collect half-read books, unwanted glasses, and sad sets of pajamas (we come away without their owners). We arrange family parties, make speeches, and pass around cocktail sandwiches and sausages on sticks.

  Initially, Sam and I were spared much of this activity. After my flight from New York, I arrived at Summerfields, my parents’ home (now just my mother’s home) the day after my father died. It was Christmas afternoon. England was shut for the holidays. Shops were closed, offices empty. Not a bus or train was running (I managed to borrow a friend’s car to get home from London). The country’s seasonal shutdown seemed for once appropriate. “Stop all the clocks, cut off the telephone,” wrote W. H. Auden. “He Is Dead.” A life has stopped in its tracks and so should we.

  So my mother and I ambled quietly around the house, assessing what needed to be done. It was a strangely happy time we spent together. Neither of us discussed it, but we both felt a tremendous sense of relief—relief that my father’s painful battle with cancer was at last over.

  Soon after I arrived, Sam handed me a brown envelope on which in Fa’s spindly handwriting was written the words: “To be opened after my death.” Inside was a document he’d typed up six months earlier on his computer in “The Hut,” the converted garden shed that housed his much-loved office.

  Actually, The Hut was much more than his office. It was his home at home. In it, he had his 1970s stereo system (“But the sound is superb,” he protested whenever we suggested something more modern) and the Remington typewriter he reluctantly relinquished in favor of a secondhand computer. The shelves in The Hut were full of clues about his life—small model boats, giant industrial bolts, tape measures, set squares, boxes of fishing flies. On the walls were framed photos—Fa as a small boy in shorts in the annual school picture; his late brother Gavin, a military officer, standing in line with his regiment, the Fifth Royal Inniskilling Dragoon Guards.

  It was in The Hut that my father loved to spend time writing letters and essays, listening to jazz, and compiling photo albums and scrapbooks. And it was in The Hut that, with his death approaching, he composed the letter I was about to read.

  * * *

  The text of Fa’s document starts ominously with: “To Whom It Will Concern.” Yet in each sentence, the gravitas of his legal terminology is interrupted by lighthearted phrases or exclamation marks that betray his sense of fun and desire to dismantle convention. Rereading this letter, as I sometimes do, I hear his voice in every line: serious and authoritative, matter of fact, yet ready to enjoy the amusing side of any situation—even his own death.

  “Following cremation I would like my ashes to be scattered in the churchyard of North Poorton Church,” he tells us. “Subject to any prior approvals necessary, the scattering requires no formalities, or ceremonial baggage attached to the act o
f scattering!” A local undertaker should arrange for the cremation and delivery of the ashes, he continues, without supplying “any expensive coffin. No ‘oak coffin with brass gilt handles’ should be necessary; no brass casket to contain the ashes is needed; a cardboard box, or polythene bag will suffice.” (Remembering his request for a refund for my grandmother’s mistakenly ordered coffin, this bit certainly makes sense.)

  He includes practical considerations: “The weather needs to be calm, with no more than light winds.” This sentence always makes me smile—because I know he means it. As an agricultural surveyor who advised farmers on business and legal matters, Fa liked things done properly. His letters, while sometimes philosophical and always affectionate, included instructions for things like “keeping wet out of old windows.” In one, he worries about my sister Kate’s “tricky problem with her flat roof.” In another, he’s interested to hear that his brother Alastair’s water supply has “a consistent overflow running at the springhead.” A note I found from Country Landowner magazine thanked him for his “fascinating piece about drainage.” Preoccupied with the practical throughout his life, he wants to make sure we don’t “make a nonsense,” as he would’ve put it, of the practical side of his death.

  But he trusts us, too. “Everything can be left, safely in the hands of Sam (Pamela), and Sarah and Kate, who, if they did not know before quite precisely where my preferences lie, they will do so now,” he writes—“in the soil of a beautiful Dorset churchyard, in beautiful Dorset landscape!”

  There will be no funeral, no fuss, no speeches, and certainly no sausages on sticks. He discourages us from arranging any “formalities” or “ceremonials” and stresses that any suggestion of a “get-together,” wake, or memorial would be “anathema” (he hated formal functions and had a horror of long speeches).

  Accompanying the document (and this is my favorite bit) is a photograph—a color print of a small stone church in a picturesque village sitting at the heart of softly undulating hills and pea-green fields. On the photograph, in ballpoint pen, he’s drawn a cross next to the church and written the words: “X marks the spot!”

  * * *

  When I first read through Fa’s document, I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. Typed out using the computer he valiantly struggled to master, the words went a long way toward restoring my image of him before his illness—of a man whose best attempts to get serious about something were always foiled because he couldn’t resist injecting a liberal dose of humor into the proceedings.

  And here was my father, in death as in life, doing things properly, tying up the loose ends. This was something I could certainly relate to. I’ve always liked everything to be in order. When sharing hotel rooms with friends, I have to warn them I’ll probably make the bed or rearrange their stuff without even noticing I’m doing it. Even more embarrassing have been moments when I’ve found myself absentmindedly neatening the shelves in bookshops and supermarkets. So my father’s urge to tidy up before departing seemed entirely logical.

  Coming from a confirmed atheist, his request to have his ashes scattered in a churchyard was a bit of a surprise, to say the least. Yet he’d dispelled any notion of a last-minute conversion to Christianity: “My choice of the churchyard is simply that I have my very oldest friends there already (Jim and Dood Anderson), and also that it is a very beautiful place (see attached photograph).”

  In fact, the spot he chose is particularly lovely—a village with a charming church, St. Mary Magdalene, at its heart in a rolling green landscape that flattens into a hazy blue-gray as it greets the sea. On our rambles around the countryside together, we’d often stopped there to sniff the air and admire the view.

  No, what was really puzzling about Fa’s document was the revelation that he’d considered having anything done with his “organic matter” at all and had, moreover, left us detailed instructions on how he was to be disposed of, a description of the location he’d chosen for his remains, and an expression of his desire to end up near close friends. His rationalist way of thinking was one I’d always embraced unquestioningly—accepting death as an ending without meaning, an absence where once there was a presence. So this final acknowledgment of a connection between his living and his dead self seemed to me a reversal of his entire philosophy.

  * * *

  As well as filling us with sadness and a sense of loss, the death of someone we’ve loved presses the shadow of our own mortality into a sharper image. Fa’s death has coincided with my growing realization that, at some point in the coming decades, I too will come to an end. I’ve noticed an alarming acceleration in the passage of time, as each year represents an increasingly small proportion of my life. I find myself wondering whether packing in as much as possible will make it seem to stretch out for longer, or if periods of inactivity might persuade it to advance at a more leisurely pace (I end up favoring the first option).

  But if my father’s death has got me thinking about the notion of human transience, his last request, with its implicit acceptance of the significance of his remains, has prompted me to consider a question that’s entirely new to me—what might I ultimately do with my own physical leftovers? What kind of send-off do I want? For if arranging some form of final passage turned out to be important to a man who once pronounced his future dead self to be merely “organic matter,” then perhaps these things are important after all.

  In thinking about my eventual exit, I face a singularly modern challenge—as an atheist and someone who lives alone (with no particular desire to change this arrangement), I may well be the only one with any incentive to make preparations for my funeral, or at least for the disposal of my body.

  Still, I have a great starting point—a blank slate. For among the things I love about being an independent, single woman is that it’s all up to me. I wear what I want, eat out when I like, stay in when I need to, paint the walls any color I fancy. It follows, then, that I can order any sort of coffin, bury my body anywhere I’m legally allowed to, have my ashes scattered wherever I choose, and leave my money to whomever I deem deserving. With no in-laws to influence me, and no religion to constrain me, I’m free to make choices in death as well as in life.

  Ah, but there’s the rub—where do I start? Having grown up in a secular family, in an increasingly secular Britain, I don’t even have any doctrines to reject. Religion scarcely touched my education, save for a brief weekly prayer during general assembly. A decade in New York has brought me no closer to spirituality. Like so many of the city’s residents, I worship at its temples of culture and commerce, not creed. Yet atheism provides little guidance on how to deal with the end of life. People might complain about the strictures of their faith or the limitations imposed by traditional communities, but a few rules come in handy when you’re dead.

  So I’ve decided to embark on a series of journeys to see how others do it. I’ll visit old haunts such as Hong Kong, where I lived for four years, and Mexico, one of my favorite countries. Other places will be less familiar but ones I’m keen to revisit—the Philippines, Ghana, and the Czech Republic. Some destinations will be new to me—ones on my travel wish list, such as Iran, Sicily, and Bali. Writers often tell us about places we must see before we die. I want to explore some of the ones we end up in when we’re dead. And when you’re looking for death, you find yourself in places you might not otherwise have put on your itinerary.

  Of course for most people, a review of their “final arrangements,” as they’re often called, involves a chat with the family or a visit to a lawyer, financial advisor, or funeral director. My response is to hit the road. As a journalist and longtime traveler, it’s what I’ve always done when I want to learn about something—I like to get out there, feel the heat, pound the pavement, taste the wine. And, who knows, perhaps contemplating something as scary as my own death will make its approach a little less terrifying.

  What’s more, if I’m lost for ideas, the traditions of others will surely offer me some inspiration. Fo
r disposing of the dead is something mankind does incredibly well. We bury our loved ones in the ground. We burn them in fire (in some cases, we bury them first and burn them later). We dismember them and lay the parts to rest in different places. In certain cultures, we leave corpses as carrion, inviting the birds to pick the bones dry. In others, we hang the dead in trees or stow them in caves. In naval circles, we consign them to the ocean.

  Meanwhile, we’ve created all manner of ceremonies to dignify their removal. We incinerate bodies in decorative paper effigies on funeral pyres. We arrange for riderless horses to accompany the cortege to the cemetery. Amid the sound of bells and the swirl of incense, we toss the remains of our fellows into sacred rivers. We sing songs, recite poetry, engage in mock battles, and even play games. In some places, we shout with joy at a spirit’s departure. Elsewhere, we might wail and moan and tear at our clothes (in my own British culture, we snivel quietly into our hankies).

  The way we deal with the dead speaks volumes about the human race. Death rites and grave sites are the focus for astonishingly diverse forms of expression. They echo our thoughts about the afterlife (the Yanomamo people of Venezuela and Brazil, who believe their souls are eaten by cannibals in the netherworld, consume the ashes of their cremated dead after the funeral). They reflect the way we live (in Japanese Shinto funerals, families use chopsticks to transfer the ashes of the dead into their urns).

  Funerals and burials reveal all kinds of things about us, from our social status to our thoughts on marriage and where our religious affiliations lie (Muslim graves are aligned so the face of the deceased points toward the holy city of Mecca). They are windows onto the world’s most deeply held philosophies, superstitions, hopes, and fears.

  So what will mine say about me? What method of disposal should I select for my own dead body, and what ceremonies might accompany its removal? Most important, where do I want to leave my remains? Some societies believe the spirit cannot rest until the corpse is returned home. But what if it’s unclear where home is?